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Post by kliff on May 3, 2008 8:00:46 GMT -5
59519.1 Sometimes I see guys looking really hard for cable suggestins, when changing bars or adding for extensions. So why not make a dedicated thread to the combo you are using. Another "info" thread. I'll start. '02 Custom, 12" apes & 4" risers & 3" fork extensions Throttle cables- Barnett +4, stock routing Clutch cable( I'm running a suicide set-up, but mocked up with this, before going sui.) - Barnett +6, stock routing. Brake Line- Goodridge +4 with stock forks, +8 with Bilski 3" extensions, stock routing Speedo- Working Class Choppers +6 extension, using Bilski 3" fork extensions [glow=red,2,300]NOTE[/glow] 7" internal handlebar wire extensions worked, 9" would have been more comfortable to work with. 4" throttle cable work fine, WITH the bars leaned forward, a more rearward tilt, would have necessitated 6" cables for OEM routing. this bar and riser combo probably most closely resembles 14" Apes on stock risers.
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Post by reaper on May 11, 2008 16:23:08 GMT -5
I have 12" Apes by Highway Hawk, with 4" fork extensions by Billski, so I needed longer cables all round:
Speedo +6" steel braided, Clutch +16" steel braided, Throttle +16" steel braided, Idle +16" steel braided, Home made electrical extensions all hidden internally within the handlebars.
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Post by reaper on May 30, 2008 10:20:01 GMT -5
Hey Kliff and guys, as some of you know I replace all cables and hoses with stell braided, you also know that the lengths are a big issue, they're either too long or too short, unless you pay to have them made to specific lengths you use the one slightly longer than needed......
Can they be cut back and resoldered nipples added?
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Post by kliff on May 30, 2008 10:31:28 GMT -5
Yup, but it isn't always an easy task. The housing, or outter sheath ends are usually swedged or crimped on. Next to impossible to remove intact. When I shorten cables for the suicide clutch set-up, I make new ends out of billet aluminum rod stock. Usually stepped to 3 different sizes internally, and expoxied back on the sheath, then sealed with heat shrink. The cable itself can be shorted after the sheath assy. It reqires the abilit to make a new end for the cable, then silver solder it on. 90% silver, 10% tin works good, with a liquid flux, and cable tep in the area of solderring, just betwen a dark red, and dull orange color. Be sure to use a heat sink, so you don't melt the teflon sheild in the outer sheath. And measure 5 times before cutting ANYTHING!
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Post by reaper on May 30, 2008 13:53:43 GMT -5
Thanks Kliff, I thought it would be a surgical precedure lol. I'll try anythig once, here we go.
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Post by kliff on May 30, 2008 15:52:56 GMT -5
That's the only way to learn...GO FOR IT! The next cable I shorten, I'll try to remember the camera, and do a photo essay. Maybe it'll help someone.
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